Camden Town is all things to too many people. Frequenters of the stretch between Mornington Crescent and Chalk Farm tube stations know when to pounce, where to aim, when to leave the place alone. The sheer breadth of choice is overwhelming. Whether you want to be entertained, annoyed, amused, intoxicated, fed, preached to, begged from, ignored, listened to, educated, pampered, bargained-up, let down, pierced, fleeced, jazzed, rocked or rolled – all manner of experience is available here. Johnny Turner samples the scene and Neil Esposito takes snapshots.
Travelling
Underground Northern line tubes at Camden Town (exit only at weekends until 7.30 p.m.), Chalk Farm and Mornington Crescent
Silverlink Train Services Camden Road and Kentish Town West stations
Buses Comprehensive network from central and north London.
Drinking
The Purple Turtle Groovy watering hole for scenesters. 61–65 Crowndale Road NW1. 020 7383 4976
Bartok Plush and popular, with soothing music. 78 Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7916 0595
Spread Eagle Unpretentious local. 141 Albert Street NW1. 020 7267 1410
Black Cap Famous gay pub with nightly cabaret. 171 Camden High Street. 020 7428 2721
The Lock Tavern Excellent roof garden. 35 Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7485 0909
Clubbing
HQ Get Loose on Saturdays. West Lock, Camden Lock Place NW1. 020 7681 6044
Underworld Famous indie nights. 174 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7482 1932
Camden Palace Dance nights as well as live gigs. 1a Camden High Street NW1. 020 7387 0428
Electric Ballroom For the discerning dancer. 84 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7485 9007
Gigging
Jazz Café World-class acts in intimate surroundings. 5 Parkway NW1. 020 7916 6060
Monarch Indie rock and more at Barfly. 49 Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7916 1049
Dingwall’s Mid-sized venue for top-flight talent. Camden Lock NW1. 020 7267 1577
The Forum Possibly the best music venue in London. 9–17 Highgate Road NW5. 020 7344 0044
Dublin Castle Indie guitar hopefuls. 94 Parkway NW1. 020 7485 1773
Falcon Tiny room but good sound. 234 Royal College Street NW1. 020 7485 3834
Marketing
Camden Market Street fashion, a variety of food including fantastic falafel, music, home accessories and, above all, crowds. Open Thursday to Sunday.
Camden Lock Antiquarian books, gifts, crafts, jewellery and some worthless tat. Open seven days a week.
Inverness Street Market One of the area’s last remaining fruit, veg and flower markets, located in this newly gentrified street.
Stables Market A sprawling goodie-bag, quirky and varied, every weekend.
Electric Ballroom This nightclub becomes a market on Sundays, selling vintage and one-off clothing.
Dining
Belgo Noord Blond beer, mussels and chips. 71 Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7672 0718
New Culture Revolution Noodles and fresh juices. 43 Parkway NW1. 020 7267 2700
Café Delancey French bistro, great for a weekend breakfast. 3–7 Delancey Street NW1. 020 7387 1985
Marine Ices A Camden institution, excellent pasta, pizza and ice cream. 8 Haverstock Hill NW1. 020 7482 9000
Sauce Veggie heaven. 14 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7482 0777
Shopping
Camden Bikes Cycles and supplies. 3 Camden Road NW1. 020 7485 1372
Intermura Furnishings and interior design. 27 Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7485 6638
Sainsbury’s For the essentials. 17–21 Camden Road NW1. 020 7482 3828
Vintage Magazine Company Also framed posters and movie memorabilia. 247 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7482 0587
Swear2 Cool shoes and more. Stables Market, Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7482 6336
Rhythm Records CDs and vinyl, from mainstream to out-there. 281 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7267 0123
Exercising
Camden Town Gym 193 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7482 4524
Fitness First 128 Albert Street NW1. 020 7284 2244
Viewing
Primrose Hill 62 acres, with a panoramic view of the city from its summit
London Zoo Talk to the animals or hang out by the penguin pool. Regent’s Park NW1. 020 7722 3333
Odeon Camden Fanatical about film, apparently. Parkway NW1. 020 8315 4229
The Roundhouse Art installations, theatre and circus performance in historic former railway terminus. Chalk Farm Road NW1. 020 7424 9800
Laughing
Jongleurs Comedy Club The finest in stand-up. 11 East Yard, Camden Lock NW1. 020 7428 5929
Boating
Jenny Wren Cruises Float towards Little Venice on Regent’s Canal. 250 Camden High Street NW1. 020 7485 6210
Star-spotting
Writer Alan Bennett, professional naughty brother Liam Gallagher and broadcaster Joan Bakewell are among the local luminaries.